Sunday, March 15, 2009

Quiz Results: You are 18% Shameless Tourist!


I am so much more invigorated by good company in a modest kitchen in the Barrio then I am by collecting snapshots of myself in front of world-famous attractions. 

Today, Javi and I sat in the kitchen for nearly SEVEN hours drinking mate and chatting in spanish (hey-o) about many things, including that mysterious topic of tourism that always seems to be hovering over me in this country. 

Dad had an absolutely incredible visit to BA with a very minimal tourist agenda. He saw Recoleta Cemetery, wandered Puerto Madero, and listened to some Tango, but it was by no means because of a strict adherence to a guidebook's itinerary suggestions. Dad's trip was amazing because he was interested in becoming more intimate with something specific: daily life, food styles, some music, basic spanish. Things that are not out of reach with some local connections and SO much more rewarding in the end. 

Will I be devastated if I come all the way to Argentina and don't see Patagonia? Mendoza? Punto del Este? Igazu Falls? No, no I won't. I guarantee I would have an amazing time in those places, but what moves me more than being able to say, "Hell yeah I went to Patagonia! Yeah I skied! Yeah it was awesome!" is actually feeling like I made an authentic connection with the culture. 

And the path to that is...ding ding ding! The people!! 

I like interesting people more than beautiful places.

Hablamos. 


ASSERTION!!

I'm often fond of subtlety.

in poetry, in fashion, in wit, in spices. 


when I travel, I kind of prefer taking pictures of laundry hanging out to dry than I do national monuments. 

when I'm insulted, I'd rather have it be a puzzle than an obvious broadcast. 

when I go hiking, I'm more satisfied smelling the trees than I am reaching the summit.

....
But there comes a time when the non-confrontational, conflicting-fearing, manner-conscious mediators are not celebrated for the beauty of their oh-so-subtle behaviors, but overlooked as, well, non-existent.

This is what happens in Latin America. You see my friends, while the people here are relaxed and friendly, they don't mess around. Straight shooters, persistent, forward. When there is something to be said, it is said. When they are told by some beat-around-the-bush type, "yeah, i'm not so sure...maybe..I'll think about it...," he might as well have said "WHATEVER YOU WANT."

Some people come to Latin America to chillll. Hammocks, beers, fiestas, what have you. 
But if you are going to chill, you are going to do it in the most blatantly and obviously and everyone will know what's up with you. There's just not a lot of bullshit here*.

*except from taxi drivers. 

This is good for me. It's good for some of the qualities that emerge from us picket-fence Americans on not-so-bold days in the big city: indecisiveness, timidity, shyness, self-consciousness.

(Wait, Caro, you're shy? No te creo, I don't believe you! says the local friend who doesn't know it, but is helping to bring out the fiery latina that I know is in here somewhere).

Latin America is helping me CUT THE CRAP, get to the POINT, say N-O when I mean NO. 
Take PRIDE. sing LOUDLY. JAYWALK!! get OUT. leave the CASA. leave the BARRIO. leave the CAPITAL. learn merengue! or tango?? eat organ meat. INTRODUCE MYSELF. tell the truth. LAY IT ON THE TABLE. do what I gotta do. respond, "si! en serio! soy americana!" Take INITIATIVE. do something kind. PAY ATTENTION. walk with intention. 

 It's hard to imagine when I went to DC with mom, grandma, and aunts julie and chris that I was downright intimidated by the need to hail a cab. 
(woah, woah, woah...stand out in the street and wave your arms so everyone will look at you?? no thanks! I'll just walk on the far side of the sidewalk where nobody will see me...)

Not anymore. There's some authentic boldness in my gait these days and I am starting look forward to nasty cat-calls so I can say, "Che! Te conozco?? Do I know you?? NO!? Enough!" 

Who would have thought I'd be less shy when I'm speaking a language I don't actually know! It's a funny phenomenon. I'm willing to sacrifice some dignity to learn, because you HAVE to. An american girl I met working in a hostel raised her beer glass in the air, and in response to somebody's "here's to us having a great, long night!" she meant to say something to the effect of, "and here's to me being a cranky bitch in the morning!" But, in her not-quite perfect spanish she actually said, "And here's to me being a big slut tonight!" All the locals looked at her incredulously, and quickly corrected her. Then we all died laughing. She was not embarrassed even a little bit, because those are the mistakes that MUST be made to learn. 

Nowadays, in situations where before I might have been nervous about presenting myself to others in some way, I just don't worry. Maybe because now I can always blame my horrible spanish for my awkwardness instead of having to accept that I might just be a straight-up awkward person! 

The point is that it's wonderful to lose stupid fears that hold you back and I hope I can internalize this stuff permanently!!! 

Nos Vemos, Amigos.
caro




(some more perspective)

check out my dad's comment on the previous post for some more stories! 


Friday, March 13, 2009

Pace...

When I think about the concept of study abroad, there are two important reasons to do it that I think most program directors have rendered cliché, but are still a really useful frame of reference: 

1. Promoting understanding between cultures.
2. Positive exchange of ideas. 

The first one I think is especially important as an American. I don't know if you guys heard, but we have a bit of a bad rap around the world these days.... We need to be presenting ourselves as open-minded, educated, and cosmopolitan, and less as a self-absorbed, self-righteous, blindly nationalistic group of bullies. Which, by the way, most of us are NOT, but we seem to viewed that way as a collective. 
So, by immersing ourselves in another culture we are not only able to understand more about the way millions of other people live day-to-day in the world but also give the rest of the world a chance to see Americans in a positive light. Then we can all understand political and cultural situations beyond what national medias and hearsay provide. 

The second reason, to me, has always been about bringing knowledge home. I think it's important to study abroad, or at least travel, to places that are very different from what we already know. Chris' trip to Morocco, Matt's trip to Madagascar, Lyndia's trip to Nepal. These are places with a way of living radically different than the US. It's an amazing opportunity to see what works for others peoples and societies and what doesn't. We then have the power to bring back the positive attitudes and behaviors that maybe Americans lack. I was thinking about this idea today, and how, well, it's kind of selfish. I sort of bumble around Buenos Aires looking for some amazing outlook on life that I can apply to my life at home. But, the more I search for an outlook, the further it seems within my grasp.

 I think it's because I am not looking to give something the same way I expect to take something from this experience. 

What am I talking about? The life the Porteños (those who life in Buenos Aires) is pretty different than American life, and certainly different from Boulder life. But it's not radically different. Both my dad and I have found ourselves extremely comfortable here. Yesterday he said that he knows he is comfortable when he does the same things he would at home: plays his guitar, writes songs, eats good food, cooks chicken wings, visits with friends. Do we just have a different backdrop? 
I'm trying to figure out what is making my adjustment to life here so simple. Is it the fact that I am around Americans so often via program kids? Is it because Inés is a bomb host and makes me feel at home with my own room, wifi, and dulce de leche galore? Or have I not actually adjusted to the different culture and am sitting in a tourist limbo--between novelty maté sessions and tours around Caminito, perhaps I haven't actually fully thrown myself into the thick of it?

I have been proactive in my attempts. Trying to hang out with locals as much as possible. But my dad's trip here sent things on a little different vector as I attempted to show him what I had learned in my first two weeks being here. I sort of had to put language immersion on hold for these two weeks. Next week I will attempt to return to my objective and get talking way, way, way more. 

But. I need to get over the fact that I SHOULD BE LEARNING (and thereby taking something home) at all times. 

This brings me to the title of today's blog. The pace of life here is a phenomenon that I've noticed transcends a lot of daily culture. 

 These are "superficial" cultural observations that are always brought up in conversations with other tourists, but they clearly indicate some element of the local culture.

1. Transportation: 
The subte (subway) can be Tokyo crowded here. Lose your privacy, lose your personal space, sweat balls. Pickpocketing on the subte or colectivo (bus) is common. You can only pay with exact change on the colectivo, and there is a huge shortage of currency due to some poor policies, and now there is mad hoarding of coins. Using precious moneda on the bus better be worth the trip. Oh and if you run out? Good luck getting change. 

2. Food:
So much meat...large quantities, dulce de leche, medialunas (croissants), low prices, vino. 

3. The Schedule: 
Okay, so. Porteños eat dinner between 9 and 11. For weekends, it's fine because you need some energy if you are going to dance until 6am, but it definitely is taking some getting used to. 

Why so late? If you eat lunch at one, you are hungry by 7. 
This is where pace is brought to the equation. Argentinians are not known for punctuality. In fact, for an exact appointment or date, there is a 15 minute buffer for it to actual happen. For something less formal, 15 to 45 minutes is more than acceptable. In a big city with somewhat unpredictable transportation, it makes sense. But in my observations, people also just sort of do what they want, when they want, at the speed they want. So, dinner just sort of happens...eventually. 
This may sound frustrating to you Type A's out there, but I actually fit in very well with this lifestyle. 

In Boulder, I would get up hours before class so that I could bumble around my house, drink my tea slowly, finish up some homework, read the news. I still happened to be AT LEAST ten minutes late every single day last semester. And I was perfectly okay with it. I never seemed to miss anything important and I stopped feeling awkward walking into rooms and having everyone stare at me. So, here, the Argentine habit feels perfectly normal. It makes me think I should have studied somewhere like Germany, so I could learn some discipline!! 

Just kidding, kind of. But that brings me to the issue I am facing. I seem to be under the impression that studying abroad/traveling should be so taxing and radical, that you return with perspective you never would have garnered in your own country nor with your own resources. And the path to that perspective is HARD, rigorous, shocking.

I was latched to this idea of being super-challenged by my semester,  but with a cultural experience, I'm quickly realizing there are no guidelines for how it should affect you. Just because I'm not having a massive culture-shock, doesn't mean I am not learning. Language is a HUGE issue, but it doesn't paralyze me. Big city life is different, but I'm not freaked out. I'm running with the current here in BA and it's not "changing my life" via shock treatment. 

I need to get to the point where I am not desperately seeking something LIFE-CHANGING  because it's never going to happen if all you're doing is pining for some earth-shattering epiphany and not actually living the experience. 

So I need to chill. But not too much. I still have to be conscious, aware, observant. But in a more neutral way. 

And I can keep moving in slow motion and be late to everything!! 

Friday, March 6, 2009

Pops is in BA

It's been a few days since Dad arrived here in the city, and I think he is enamored. 
Ines has been an absolute dream by giving up the other extra room for him to sleep in. She a made bomb carne dinner and has been embracing the wine and music each night.  At first it was really fun for me because I had to translate between Ines and Dad. But because she has decent English, after getting accustomed to his accent, they were able to communicate just fine. Ultimately, that's better, of course, but I sure did enjoy the translating. It forced me to pay more attention to the content of Ines' spanish, since its easy to zone out with so much foreign language being thrown at you. It also gave me more practice in speaking because I needed to formulate my Dad's ideas and humor into coherent spanish thoughts. It was fun. 

The first day here, I had to do a full day of activities with the program, so I had to hand Dad a map and point toward Recoleta. He got to see a lot of the city on his walk, visited the famous cemetery, ate a steak meal at a Restaurant called "Clark's," and took lots of photos of the old F0rd trucks that buzz around the neighborhood. Dad and Ines found a cheap guitar (USD 85) and Dad caused quite a stir in the music shop with all of his old American rock songs. Argentinos LOVE rock music. We visited Palermo yesterday for a fancy lunch and a look at the higher end barrio, and today we'll go to Boca to see that colorful neighborhood you see in all those photos of Buenos Aires. 

Classes begin next week (wait, I'm here to study??) and things are getting real! 

Tuesday, March 3, 2009

Dollar went up on the peso!

USD$1=ARS$3.61

just in case you were wondering. 

Deep Culture Observation 1

In a presentation by the program staff, we got a very cute drawing of an iceberg and were reminded that there exists two types of cultures relevant to foreigners.

Surface culture: what we see about a people. They way they look physically, how they walk and talk. Accents, clothing styles. Music, dance, crafts. Folky things. 

Then underneath the surface of course, there are the things that really take some effort to discover. What exactly are these unseated gems of cultural relevance?

I have no idea so far, but I've been thinking about it. 

One kid on the program, with an affinity for soccer, brought up the idea of fighting. He noticed when two men chased down a pick pocket, instead of tackling him or socking him in the face, like you might see in the States, they actually slide tackled him and just kicked the crap out of him. 
We started discussing aggression styles on a cultural level. You will fight in ways you your body knows. The US, which seems to have a physical history in sports like boxing, baseball, and football, we would most likely fight with fists, bat-like weapons, and body tackles. Latin America and likely many parts of Europe use soccer tactics--like the angry member of the crowd who headbutted the bouncer outside of the drum show I attended. That is not something you see in the States. 
In the east, where martial arts styles are really popular forms of exercise, I would guess that street fighting has pretty clear roots in karate, etc tactics. 

I'm no expert, but it's an interesting thought. 

I'll let you know what else we come up with.